Baxandall Bass and Tone Circuit Potentiometer Wiring

The potentiometers for the active Baxandall circuit have to be of the linear type so that when the wiper is at the centre, there is equal resistance on either side. I am using the cheapest ones I could get online, and one problem I discovered with these is that if you apply too much heat to their terminals, then the rivet connection between the carbon track and terminal oxidises, and you end up with a nicely soldered wire, but no electrical connection! Ideally, it is better to use terminal connectors or crimp connectors and avoid soldering altogether. If you decide to risk it and solder, then check the connections with a resistance meter afterwards, as it can save you many hours of troubleshooting afterwards when it is all assembled.

If you find your bass and tone are behaving in ways other than expected, then the wiring and connections to the potentiometer are the first place to check. Many times, I have come across potentiometers that make intermittent connections or perhaps no connection at all. Since the component is usually new, hobbyists never suspect it, and end up wasting time.

100-kΩ Potentiometer

In this project, I have wired both potentiometers such that full cut occurs on the far right side, when you turn the shaft fully clockwise. Consequently full boost is on the far left side. If you prefer it the other way round, then it is a simple matter of swapping the outer wires of the potentiometers, whilst leaving the wiper (centre terminals) exactly as they are. It obviously goes without saying that you must do that for both channels, and on both potentiometers.

Wiring to the Board

Of course, it goes without saying that you should use different coloured wires as I have done, because this way, there is less chance of making a mistake. Wiring the potentiometers is the trickiest part and this is where I anticipate many will make a mistake. It is perhaps good advice to colour code the wires and organise them well.

500-kΩ Potentiometer

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